How to Leash Train Your Best Feline
The right equipment comes first. You’ll need to purchase a lightweight leash. Don’t get a chain or a
heavy leather leash—you’re not walking a rottweiler.
The lighter the leash the better, because it’ll be more comfortable for both of you and it’ll take less time for your cat to get used to it. You’ll also need a cat harness rather than a regular collar. Your leashed cat will pull out of a collar. There are several types of harnesses on the market. I use the Come with Me Kitty harness by Premier with my cats and
clients’ cats due to its safety and comfort for the cats.
Make sure your cat’s vaccinations are up-to-date before exposing her to the outdoors. She’ll also
need an identification tag just in case she escapes from you. If it’s flea season, be sure she’s
protected.
Start leash and harness training indoors for the first couple of weeks. The first time you put them
harness on your cat just be casual about it, then give her a treat, feed her, or distract her with playtime.
Mealtime usually works best. Leave the harness on for about five to fifteen minutes. Repeat the
procedure before the next meal. If your cat is normally fed free-choice, use treats or playtime to divert
her attention away from the harness. If your cat struggles too much as you try to put the harness on,
don’t attempt to buckle it; just get the harness on her and then immediately distract her.
As your cat gets more comfortable, put the harness on her for longer periods during the day and
always provide a positive diversion should she begin to resist it? Don’t leave it on her when you’re not
there to supervise because she could get herself all worked up.
In week two, introduce the leash. Attach it to the harness but don’t tug on it. She has to get used to
the idea of being connected to something. If the leash is light enough, let your kitty drag it behind her
while you provide a distraction. Be careful that she doesn’t get the leash caught on anything. It’s best
to do this step in one room where she won’t be able to run off and possibly get tangled in something.
Once she’s comfortable with this new attachment, you’ll begin the next phase of training.
Very important warning: don’t tug on the leash at this point or your mild-mannered cat will turn into
a thrashing, growling, fur-covered chain saw. The way to introduce her to walking on a leash is
through positive reinforcement. Here’s where clicker training can work as well. Have a supply of
treats in your pocket. If your cat responds better to wet food, hold a small container of canned food
and feed the cat a tiny amount from a soft-tipped baby spoon. If you feel as if you need an extra arm in
order to handle the leash, clicker, food, and spoon, tape an extension onto the spoon and then tape
the clicker to the end. That way you can click and reward with one hand. You can also attach a
trainer’s pack to your belt and put a small opened container of wet food in there.
With the leash loosely in your hand, take a step out in front of your cat. Hold a treat out at her eye
level. When she starts walking toward the treat, click the clicker and give her the treat. Take another
step forward, holding another treat and repeat the process. You can also use a target stick: hold it out
in front of her and then click-and-treat when she takes a step forward. Continue this until she
becomes used to walking with you. Gradually introduce a slight tug as you step forward. Don’t pull or
yank the leash. It should be a gentle tug that’s barely detectable. Remember to give her time to eat
her treat; don’t expect her to stay in motion all the time.
When your cat is comfortable with this exercise, you can pair the behavior with a cue such as “let’s
walk.” Do your walking sessions around the interior of the house. Don’t attempt to go outdoors with
your cat until she’s totally comfortable walking on a leash. She shouldn’t struggle when you slightly
increase tension on it. Be prepared for this to take anywhere from one to three weeks.
